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Plumber, Water Heater Repair, Plumbing Repair, Water Heater Install

If your water heater is producing too little hot water, the problem could lie with its temperature dial being set too high. Resetting either the circuit breaker or high temperature cutoff switch may help remedy this situation, but what happens when it doesn’t?

And this is just one of many problems that can happen to your system. If your water smells foul or appears discolored, it could be due to rust or bacteria growth in your tank. The following article goes into several parts of most home systems and how they’re maintained and installed.

1. Thermostat

The thermostat is an essential piece of your heater’s operation. If it fails, it could prevent it from turning on or even cause overheating that damages its element – an expensive repair but one with easy repair potential. Thankfully, replacing or repairing this part is relatively affordable and straightforward.

If your thermostat isn’t functioning as it should, the first thing to check is its batteries. While it might be easy to overlook this step, it could help solve the issue!

Remove the cover and inspect for obstructions. If your unit is situated near drafts or vents, this could impede its ability to accurately measure temperatures; moving it can help remedy this.

Another frequent thermostat issue is improper connection. Fixing it is generally straightforward: most units feature a screw that can be undone with a screwdriver before plugging back in and testing to see if everything works as intended.

If your thermocouple or gas control valve is no longer operating efficiently, replacing them may be the answer. While this process is relatively straightforward, it does involve working with potentially hazardous chemicals and equipment.

The dip tube is another component that may become worn-out with time, as its function is to transfer cool water that enters from the top of your tank down into its lower portion, where it can then be heated by an element beneath. If it wears out or springs a leak, your hot and cold water temperatures may become irregularly balanced.

The dip tube is one of the more cost-effective parts to replace, and is relatively straightforward. You can purchase new tubes at most hardware stores, home centers and a plumber wholesaler. It’s common in most places that carry plumbing supplies, in general.

2. Element

Heater elements (or elements) are located at the bottom of your tank and heat up when an electric current passes through them, controlled by a thermostat. If they malfunction, hot water temperatures could decrease significantly; these components are inexpensive and are usually included as repair kits sold by manufacturers.

If you feel uneasy taking on this task yourself it would be wiser to call for professional assistance as they will have all of the appropriate tools and safety gear necessary, but they’ll also know exactly how to connect it properly so there won’t be any risk of injury or fire from improper connections between parts. Contact them below:

River City Plumbing

5181 Raleigh Lagrange Rd, Memphis, TN 38134

Before installing new heating elements, it is a wise practice to perform an initial test on them. To do so, switch off your electric heater at its circuit breaker and press the reset button above its upper thermostat; use a millimeter to test each heating element’s continuity; if any fails a continuity test, its replacement should be sought – available both locally or online.

If both heating elements test well, the problem could lie with either your thermostats or high-temperature cutoff switch. Both components can easily and affordably be replaced at once; replacing both elements simultaneously should help to get things up and running again as quickly as possible.

Most often, it is the thermostat which is at fault; in fact, 90-91% of times when circuit breakers keep tripping are due to a bad thermostat. Thus, before replacing an element immediately it is wise to test its workings first.

To test a thermostat (as shown here) remove its screw from its mounting location on top of the heater using a screwdriver and carefully take steps to separate it from its terminal block. Read off any labels that might be present. When done, turn back on the breaker to check continuity readings; if not, the thermostat may require replacement.

3. Dip Tube

One common problem is not having enough hot water for showering or running the dishwasher. Luckily, fixing this is usually quite simple: check whether your dip tube has become damaged by gently touching its warm pipe from your heater; if only warm air escapes through it then most likely your dip tube needs replacing as soon as possible.

To replace your dip tube ( and efficiently, you should first switch off your heater’s circuit breaker and close its water supply line. Next, disconnect the cold water pipe connector at the top of your heater that connects directly with its inlet port for your dip tube inlet port; loosen this nipple using a flat screwdriver, and pull out its old counterpart.

Now is the time to install your new tube, so make sure that it is of high-quality such as PEX tubing. Your new dip tube should be cut to length before installation so it reaches beneath the lower element and off of the bottom of your heater. If unsure about how to cut this new tube, consult instructions on its packaging or consult a plumber.

4. Pressure Valve

The heater pressure valve, commonly referred to as a T&P valve or P-Valve, is an integral safety feature designed to safeguard against dangerously high water temperatures and pressures. In case water temperatures or pressure exceed certain limits, an emergency exit path provides for any excess volume to escape into an outdoor runoff basin safely without risking further injury or potential damages.

Carbon monoxide fumes could enter your home from outside, making life-threatening levels of CO dangerously present in your environment. To combat this issue, consult a Carter professional plumber to install a new valve immediately.

You can test your heater pressure and temperature valve by placing a bucket under its discharge tube and carefully pulling open its lever with one hand, letting water pour into it, then closing and releasing the lever – this should ensure it snaps back into its proper place when released – an indicator that your pressure and temperature valve is functioning as intended and you are safe.



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